+Bryan Burnett

[G+_James Hughes]

+Bryan Burnett,

+Fr. Robert Ballecer, SJ

I have a question. I just bought the Davinci from XYZ and have been having issues printing larger items. It seems that the front right corner lifts and distorts the print. This happens consistently. I have tried moving the print as far back as possible, different filament, changing the speed to slow. All to no avail. It works great on small items but I'm trying to print a case for a custom build. I am wondering if changing the print temperature to 230c will help. Could it be that the bed needs to be adjusted? The print starts out fine and after about 30+ minutes the corner starts lifting and just gets worse as the print continues.

[G+_Steve Prior]

First check to make sure the bed is level - it may be lower on the end you're having problems.

[G+_James Hughes]

Thanks Steve, I'll give it a try.

[G+_Steve Prior]

Larger pieces use the edges of the glass where any little out of level is the most severe.

[G+_Eddie Foy]

Welcome to 3D printing.

230C sound like ABS printing. (I run at 233C)

Some things to try:

Add little round 'feet' or discs in the corners of the designs  Just trim them off after.  About 8-10mm in DIA about 0.7-1mm thick.  (center of disc at the vertex of corner)

 

Different bed coatings, blue painter's tape (PLA), Kapton tape, ABS/Acetone slurry, watered down Emlers  (white) glue. Hair spray, glue stick.

 

Heated bed make a world of difference.

 

I use the abs/acetone slurry, and on large prints it held down so tight I can pull chip out of the glass.

[G+_James Hughes]

Thanks Steve, I moved the piece so that it's as close to the center. I downloaded a print to make to help calibrate it and ordered a dial indicator (arriving Friday) that goes with it.

 

Thanks Eddie, I'm using glue stick and have ordered some Kapton tape, should be arriving tomorrow. I've read about the ABS/acetone idea for joining pieces, don't know that I want to chip the glass. 

[G+_Eddie Foy]

Kapton tape is a bear to work with.  I always got bubbles/wrinkles applying it.

I'm just using cheap picture frame glass, so its just a buck or two if it pulls a chip.

 

I had good luck with hairspray.  I personally haven't tried the white glue or glue sticks.

 

The little dics at the corners really helped a lot.  Also does your slice offer doing a brim around the part?  I have a single layer about 2.5 mm larger then the part.

 

I've had mixed results using a raft. and rarely use it any more.

[G+_James Hughes]

Eddie Foy I've been using the glue stick that came with it. I don't think that the slice offers a brim, but I could make one manually. I'll give it a try and see what happens.

[G+_Branden Ushio]

I've had really good results with Aquanet Hairspray (In the Purple Can) on a glass bed.  Also round pads around any sharp corners.

[G+_Steve Prior]

I use Elmers purple school glue stick for adhesion on glass and a cheap feeler gauge to set z height and check bed level.

[G+_Eddie Foy]

I just use a plain piece of paper to set Z.  I check a bit in from all 4 corners and center.  Found my bed was a bit bowed, have a jack screw in the middle.  Also check/set Z with bed and nozzle fully at temperature.

[G+_eric thatcher]

I have had this problem on my Replicator 2x I have found it you clean your print bed with acetone to make sure you have good adhesion and also printing on a raft. The rafts helps the thermal contraction. Also if you have a heated bed, try turning up the plate temp a few degrees this also helps with thermal contraction.

[G+_Dave Kodama]

After trying kapton tape, glue sticks, and hairspray,  I've settled on "Wolfbite" (http://airwolf3d.com/shop/wolfbite-prevents-3d-printed-parts-from-warping) from Airwolf 3D.  It seems a bit pricey for a little bit of liquid, but it works very well on bare glass and you have to use only a little of it.

 

You must use it VERY sparingly and let the glass cool off for easy removal of the print (sometimes just pops off) or use water to dissolve it.  Using too much will result in some of the glass bed coming off with the print.  I re-apply it perhaps once every 10 prints, otherwise just smooth it out between prints with a wet paper towel.

 

There is another version for PLA, but I haven't tried it yet as I have been doing ABS exclusively.

[G+_James Hughes]

Dave Kodama Thanks!

[G+_James Hughes]

The bed was out of alignment. The front was low. I did some adjustments using the wheels on the side and a piece of paper to make some eyeball corrections. This resulted in the calibration going from a total fail (there are three numbers and a pass or fail for the overall calibration) to three numbers but an overall fail. To get a pass the numbers should be near 255 with a variation of no more than 20. My numbers are still a bit low but getting closer.