Hey there Does anyone know of a 33mm x 66mm display that can be driven by a microcontroller? I ...

[G+_Robert Hafer]

Hey there. Does anyone know of a 33mm x 66mm display that can be driven by a microcontroller? I have a4-gang box with 3 light switches and a very analog indicator light that I'm planning on upgrading to smart switches ( that have their own indicators). They are Decora style switches and I'd like to put an informational display in the fourth spot, so all the electronics has to fit in a 1-gang space.

Any ideas or links will be appreciated.

[G+_Jim Hofmann]

Anytime I need an idea I start at Adafruit learn; learn.adafruit.com - Adafruit Learning System

 

Here's a small screen using a Pi zero from LCDs & Displays . May be too small :) but it's Sooooo cute.

https://learn.adafruit.com/worlds-smallest-mame-arcade-cabinet

[G+_Fr. Robert Ballecer, SJ]

Hmmmm... 33 x 66? that's an odd size. How much space do you have BEHIND the port? How deep is the keyston socket? Could you shoehorn in a larger screen behind, only using the visible area, while still being able to see it from the front?

[G+_Jason Perry]

Fr. Robert Ballecer, SJ?'s suggestion is probably going to be your best bet. It is hard to find the screen size you want, you are better off making the project work for the size you have. If you are after something that fits in a decor size hole, I would look for something larger than the hole and smaller than the box. You can always go back after and dress it up with a filter or round the edges so it looks like it was meant to be.

[G+_Jason Perry]

Wait I think I read your post wrong. Are you trying to fit everything in 1 gang? What kind of info are you wanting to display?

[G+_Toby Robb]

Maybe try for an OLED display.. eg.

 

http://www.icstation.com/oled-c-329_333.html

 

 

[G+_Robert Hafer]

The switches are in the kitchen so I'm thinking some start of the day info like current temperature and forecast high.

Yes, I would have 1-gang of space left over after new switches installed in 4-gang box; the box is a standard depth.

33mm x 66mm is the opening in a Decora wall plate; using that size screen would meld with the overall look.

A larger screen behind the plate sounds like a good idea. If I can squeeze in an Arduino with wifi and a 5v power supply, I assume I'll also need some form of driver.

[G+_Toby Robb]

I would go with an ESP8266 and an OLED. easily readable also..

[G+_Jason Perry]

Toby Robb?'s suggestion would save you the most space.

 

I am not sure how well it's WiFi would work in a metal box. The overall space for code on the chip is somewhat limited too.

[G+_Ben Reese]

Fr. Robert Ballecer, SJ?? lmgtfy.com - LMGTFY ?

 

-you had the right switch plate on the show.

[G+_Ben Reese]

I hadn't looked before, but I wonder if you couldn't fit 2 of the displays Padre showed off in that space: Diymall 0.96" Inch Blue I2c IIC Serial 128x64 Oled LCD LED Display Module for Arduino(pack of 2pcs) amazon.com - Amazon.com: Diymall 0.96" Inch Blue I2c IIC Serial 128x64 Oled LCD LED Display Module for Arduino(pack of 2pcs): Computers & Accessories/

If not, one could probably show a lot of information. And it's a little outside your size limit, but it would be neat to see this work: SainSmart 1.8" TFT Color LCD Display Module with SPI Interface & MicroSD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008HWTVQ2/

[G+_Robert Hafer]

Fr. Robert Ballecer, SJ thanks for covering my question on Know How. The 33mm x 66mm is the spec for the opening in the switch plate for a paddle switch.

Those were some great ideas. Unfortunately, when I got into the box I discovered the even though the wires were color coded for standardized code-approved wiring, the actual wiring scheme was a non-standard 3-way switch loop arrangement.; incompatible with Insteon switches.

I'm set back but I'm not done yet.

smarthome.com - Insteon Remote Control Dimmer Switch - White

[G+_Ben Reese]

Robert Hafer you can replace a 3-way switch with a standard 2-pole switch - you just lose the 2-switch control. If you're replacing it with a smart switch, that may not be a big deal.

[G+_Toby Robb]

Just putting it out there because I don't know if it's been mentioned, there is this device.

 

https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12923

[G+_Toby Robb]

sparkfun.com - SparkFun MicroView - OLED Arduino Module - DEV-12923 - SparkFun Electronics

[G+_Robert Hafer]

Ben Reese The Insteon switches I'm using require connection to the line and neutral wires. They make switches that draw power through the fixture but because there's always some power passing through the fixture, while it's not enough to light an incandescent bulb, it is enough to keep an LED bulb on. I'm shopping for some other type of smart switch.

[G+_Toby Robb]

Try the sonoff reprogrammable thru arduino..

 

[G+_Robert Hafer]

The problem is power to the switch when the light is off.

how-to-wire-it.com

[G+_Toby Robb]

I'm a little confused because is always power to a switch on one side, I take it there is no neutral wire

[G+_Toby Robb]

If there are two wires down to the switch, you can at least get power to the display , you could use an ESP 8266 like the wemos d1.

[G+_Toby Robb]

Then of course it would switch via mqtt or similar another wemos at the light fitting or sonoff or whatever you choose

[G+_Jason Perry]

To use the switch do you need to run a neutral wire to it and back?

 

If not you have enough wires.

[G+_Ben Reese]

Toby Robb from the diagram Robert Hafer? shared, neither switch box provides the connection to main power. This is a valid wiring design, but not really preferred. Regardless, it can still work but would require rewiring some at the light fixture box too.

 

For example...

White ties to to neutral at the light and the switch

Black ties to black on the light and load side of the switch

Red ties to main power on the light box and supply side of the switch

[G+_Jason Perry]

I agree with Ben Reese?, that's how I would do it. Chances are the neutral is only to power the smarts in the switch. If for some strange reason the switch needs to control the lights neutral it won't work.

[G+_Toby Robb]

I was advocating using two wires down to the switch to provide an active and neutral for something like and ESP 8266 WiFi based board, running and i2c display. Then up at the light fitting, running another WiFi based switch to turn the lights themselves on