Hey guys So I got the maker select v2 based on the shows recommendation and have managed to pri...

[G+_Carlos Velez]

Hey guys. So I got the maker select v2 based on the shows recommendation and have managed to print out some minor things with it but still learning the ropes. I want to go bigger and I am trying to build an led bridge I downloaded from thingieverse. It's a huge project with lots of parts.

 

As you can see in the pics it started to print out well but screwed up at the last minute (4 hours later). Project requires I print about 16 of these.

 

I know there are ways to identify what I might have setup incorrectly based on how the print job failed but I'm still too knew to identify. Was hoping someone could help.

 

This was printed on pla at 225 temp. Non heated bed. Default speed.

 

 

Something I recall also reading was projects can fail like this if there are sudden changes in room temperature. Such as turning an ac on or off. It's this true?

[G+_Tony Martin]

It is hard to tell from the picture what the problem is but it looks like it missed a step or two. This could be because of a belt slipping or you could need to adjust the pot on the motor driver.

[G+_Tony Martin]

Here are some links to help troubleshoot 3d prints.

 

reprap.org - Print Troubleshooting Pictorial Guide - RepRapWiki

 

https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/3d-printer-troubleshooting-guide

 

https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

 

And here is a guide to adjust the pots if you have to.

 

https://bootsindustries.com/pots-calibration-ramps-1-4/

[G+_Shooter_FPV (Shooter_FP]

I had something like that happen with a Makerbot a few days ago, except the strands were much finer, almost like hair. Might have been a filament issue... I switched filament and it worked fine.

[G+_Pat Hacker]

O

[G+_Carlos Velez]

Ill take a look at these, and try different filament. Thanks

[G+_Bernard Bout]

Looking at that photo it also looks like your printer is not bridging well. So what may be happening is that since there does not appear top be any supports, your initial bridging layers are falling off and that could be those strings.

 

You could try rotating the model so that it is vertical and turn supports on in your slicer before printing.

 

[G+_Tony Martin]

Bernard Bout this is a good observation. It is hard to tell from that photo but you may be spot on.

[G+_Carlos Velez]

Just saw this was on the show. Thanks for the support. Haven't tried to reprint it. I did make some changes that have been working for me. For starters I changed PLA brand/

Yes I was turning off the heated bed since at the time that was the only thing bringing results. Plastic would not stick properly on first layer even with glue (Later realized it was a leveling issue). Now bed is on average 40C and I use Aqua net.

 

Also I connected the printer to PC, until then I was transferring over SD card, could be placebo but I find the printer works more accurate in this mode.

 

I changed slicer and bought simplify 3d, which I used to calibrate my bed. And find easier to add supports. Prior I was using The Cura version that was supplied with Printer. Prints are coming out much cleaner now as well.

 

As for the print itself. The top was the spaghetti portion. I am going to give it another shot this weekend. With what I've learned so far and see if it works.

 

This would be the project I am trying to print.

thingiverse.com - LED bridge lamp by Opossums

[G+_Tony Martin]

Hello again Carlos Velez, The tip on the show about aquanet was very good, it is what I use. I get it from the dollar store for about $3 a can. I do not know if I missed it the first time or if you updated the original post but 225c is to high for most printers printing PLA. On my two printers I print PLA between 190 and 200. The stringing is from poor bridging as Bernard suggested. The lower the temp that you print at the better your bridging will be because at lower temps the filament is stiffer and can cool faster which will let it hold its shape better and sag less. At a certain point the distance between the two sections that you are trying to bridge between can be to large for bridging to work well. That point is different for every printer and filament. When the distance between the two points becomes to large for your printer/filament to handle you have no choice but to use supports to hold up the bridges. If the bridging is on the top of a part adding more layers to the top of the print can also help in some cases because you are building up more material.

 

Lowering the print temp will also help with the bed adheasion that they talked about on the show. There is a fine line between being hot enough to get a good bond between layers and being to hot to get quality prints.

 

Here is some info about bridging from ultimaker.

 

ultimaker.com - Bridging | Ultimaker

[G+_Carlos Velez]

Thanks Tony Martin I review link.

The PLA I was using was a Black Magic 3D which recommended 220 to 230 as temp. So I used the middle ground.

[G+_Tony Martin]

I looked that filament up as I have never herd of it. Most people are say it is printing best at 190. However, it has very bad reviews. I use Hatchbox which is about the same price and is one of the best filaments I have used.

[G+_Carlos Velez]

I bought a few different bands now to play around with. That one was supposed to be metal, plus all their other pla's have interesting properties like glow in the dark and magnetic. But probably wont be purchasing any more from them for same reason you said.

[G+_Tony Martin]

If you decide to try Hatchbox dont buy it if it is over like $24. The price jumps at times but is regularly around $20-23. I have seen it go as high as $35 though. I have used filaments of brands that cost over $60 that do not do as well as Hatchbox.

[G+_Shooter_FPV (Shooter_FP]

On my new Maker Select Plus the first brand of filament I bought was Hatchbox Black PLA, did maybe 7-8 prints (currently doing an 18-hour print), and so far NO issues at all. Using 200c temp, and 50c bed temp. Sticks to the build plate like glue... just ordered Hatchbox Green PLA... oh, and it was $21 on Amazon.