I have a luggable 12v-batterybank compressor light jumpstarter usb-powersupply invertor

[G+_Neil Carmichael]

I have a luggable 12v-batterybank/compressor/light/jumpstarter/usb-powersupply/invertor

 

Unfortunately whilst all the functions work the sealed lead-acid battery inside (12v 20Ah) is no longer holding charge.

 

The easy option is to go a like-for-like replacement, but am wondering what else I could put in there and is it even worth doing so?

 

What our thoughts, upgrade or like-for-like?

 

 

http://www.componentshop.co.uk/12v-20ah-sealed-lead-acid-battery.html

[G+_Travis Hershberger]

Like-for-like. Everything was designed around that specific battery. Trying to do an "upgrade", you'd also need to upgrade the electronics, which means a whole new device most likely. Sounds like a nice multi-function one at least. Replacement batteries shouldn't be nearly so expensive as replacement, so that would be my preferred path.

[G+_Joe Valasko]

check out the following Instructables link and the included comments.http://www.instructables.com/id/Refilling-SLAs-Sealed-Lead-Acid-battery/

 

instructables.com - Refilling SLA's (Sealed Lead Acid Battery), Like Refilling a Car Battery

[G+_Neil Carmichael]

thanks guys, I'll probably go for the like for like option rather than refilling in as we take it camping and its around young children. I have considered attaching a separate solar panel to it to keep a base-charge in it.

 

[G+_Black Merc]

Like-for-like is go! But, while in there, consider replacing functions you don't use for functions you may like to have. .. USB charge ports?

[G+_Chris Eckeard (StMerlin]

I'd look for the largest 12v battery that will fit in the unit. 12 volts is 12volts and the units electronics can handle at least 15 volts so a larger capacity unit will be fine. I replace UPS sealed batteries all the time with larger capacity batteries and have done this for years for me and my clients.

[G+_Neil Carmichael]

Chris Eckeard I really like the idea of putting it the largest capacity I can that has the same form-factor and voltage

[G+_Golden Retriever]

I think as long as he's using lead acid for lead acid he's fine, now if he tries to go to a battery with different chemistry that's where he could get into trouble. As a nickel cadmium metal hydride or lithium-ion for example

[G+_Chris Eckeard (StMerlin]

Tod Sage I agree. Though you can get a setup that would provide the correct range of voltage, the units circuitry would not be correct on its method for charging/discharging/maintaining different battery chemistry.

[G+_Robert T]

As long as you were happy with the performance of the existing battery I would just go for like for like.

[G+_Jason Marsh]

I tired of replacing jump-box batteries years ago. Now, I just keep a decent set of jumper cables and for an air pump I have one that plugs into a 12V outlet. Flashlights should be in every nook and cranny in your vehicles, anyways.

 

As for the jumper cables, I put Anderson connectors on all my vehicles, lawn tractor, and mobile fueling station, and it's a snap to jump anything I have. For other people's problems, I keep a pair of jumper leads with clips that plugs into the Anderson connector on the end of my cables. What's really nice is I can connect 16' cables together to reach further, albeit with a lower Ampacity. Since I'd never start a dead vehicle on jumpers, instead only charging their battery up for a few minutes before disconnecting and let them have at it, I've had no issues with long runs beyond 30 feet on AWG #6 welding cable.

[G+_Sean Miller]

Jason Marsh AWW Yeah! You did EXACTLY what I've been thinking of doing with my SUV. I've been wondering if anybody out there had the same idea. The battery in my Chevy Traverse is in the MIDDLE of the car. I want to run Anderson cables to the back so that I can actually receive a jump or jump someone else from the rear with the front stuck in a parking space. I have been hesitant to run the cables though. I am not that mechanically inclined and need advice from someone who knows better on how to do it.

[G+_Jason Marsh]

Sean Miller It's really simple. Buy #6 welding cable and Anderson connectors online, and have a local stereo shop crimp the ends on for you. Finding a good spot to put the connector (within reach, but out of the way of road debris and spray) will be the hardest part.

 

I went with the SB50 (50 Amp) connectors because they're not too big. You'll still want to only charge your battery from the donor vehicle, then start. Even with 200 Amp connectors you wouldn't want to start while connected, because you 'could' do harm to the donor's charging system. With the 50 Amp connectors on 16 feet of #6 cable (each way), the setup isn't built to sustain high amperage (starting) , though I have jumped a dead diesel pickup as last resort. His batteries were toast so they wouldn't take a charge. I worried about my charging system for about a day, but I at least got the disabled vehicle off the side of the road.

 

Standard disclaimer: This project kills baby seals, cars may blow up spontaneously, will not stop IRS audit, and your mileage may vary.