If anybody is building a quad with the RTFQ 's Flip 1 5 flight controler you might want to watch...

[G+_John Russcher]

If anybody is building a quad with the RTFQ's Flip 1.5 flight controler you might want to watch this video on how to install install/update the sketch(RTFQ's does this for you but it is nice to know how to do it) and assign flight modes to a switch on your radio. I like flying in horizon mode most of the time. 

[G+_Fr. Robert Ballecer, SJ]

There is now a plugin for Chrome that will talk to all the Arduino-based flight controllers. -- Quite awesome!

 

https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/baseflight-configurator/mppkgnedeapfejgfimkdoninnofofigk?hl=en

[G+_Fr. Robert Ballecer, SJ]

Lemme start you off...

 

FC = "Flight Controller": The "brains" of a multi-rotor that keeps can automatically keep it level while also giving the craft a fly-by-wire system of flight.

 

LiPo = "Lithium Polymer": The battery pack. Each cell provides 3.7 volts and a variable amount of capacity. They can be wired in serial or parallel. For example, a 2200mAh 3S1P pack provides 11.1 volts (3.7x3) and 2200mAh of capacity. A 6600mAh 1S3P provides 3.7 volts and 6600mAh of capacity (3 x 2200mAh cells in parallel.)

 

ESC: "Electronic Speed Control": The device that connects to your flight controller, power source and motors. Let's the flight controller adjust the speed of each motor individually.

 

CoG = "Center of Gravity": The CoG can shift based on where you place weight on your craft. You want the center of the flight controller to be your craft's CoG (at least in 2 axis) so that it can properly control your craft.

 

Baro: "Barometer": a pressure sensor either on or connected to the flight controller. This will allow your craft to keep a constant altitude.

 

MAG: "Magnetometer": a magnetic sensor either on or connected to the flight controller. This will allow your craft to keep a constant heading.

 

GPS: "Global Positioning System": a sat receiver connected to the flight controller. This will allow your craft to keep a constant position.

 

FPV: "First Person View": a camera and transmitter on the craft, wireless connected to a receiver and screen on the ground. This allows the pilot to control the craft as if he/she is sitting in the craft. (with a lot of static)

 

AGL: "Above Ground Level": Usually used with "that stupid n00b went higher than 400 AGL!" -- Good pilots stick to below 400 feet AGL.

 

Gimbal: "Gimbal": Means many things, but on a multi-rotor it's usually the assembly that holds a camera steady as the craft is jerking around the sky. Anytime you see REALLY smooth video from a multi-rotor, it's usually on a gimbal.

 

SL: "Self Level": This is a function of your flight controller. Keeps your craft as level as possible.

 

Acro: "Acrobatic": Fun... lots and lots of fun... basically it involves doing crazy acrobatics with your craft, usually with self-level turned off so you can complete control over what your craft does. 

 

Horizon: A flight controller mode that will self-level when the control sticks are near the center of their travel, but remove self-level at the edges. This allows the pilots to combine acro flying and "SL Loitering"

 

PID: Settings in your flight controller that allow you to set how quickly it will self-level

 

Stick Scaling: Settings in your flight controller that will allow you to set how quickly it reacts to your flight inputs.

 

Expo: "Eposition": Settings on your transmitter (if you have a decent one) that will allow you to curve the instructions you send to the craft. (For example: If I turn up the stick scaling on my craft (making it more responsive so I can acro fly), then I want to change the expo on my transmitter so that the "middle" of my control range is less responsive while the edges are more. This make it easier to control while also more agile while doing crazy acro.)

 

Throttle Curve: Just like expo... but for the throttle. Allows you to make the "sweet spot", at which your craft will hover, much bigger.

[G+_Donald Burr]

+1.  Definitely worth a watch, and definitely be careful when flashing firmware onto your Flip.  The procedure isn't as obvious/intuitive as, say, upgrading an Android phone (or even rooting one) so you really have to pay attention.  First time I tried reflashing my Flip (needed to install the special "calibrate all ESCs" variant of the firmware) I somehow managed to brick it (rendered it completely useless/unflashable.)  Fortunately I happen to be an embedded/Arduino guy and so happened to have an ICSP (in-circuit system programmer) lying around which I was able to use to force install a correct build of the firmware onto my Flip, unbricking it.

[G+_Donald Burr]

Harold Smith If I were you I'd just get the B6-AC version of the Imax charger.  It is in all respects identical to the B6 except that it also has a universal AC power supply (110-240v 50/60Hz) built in.  However it still retains the 12V barrel plug, so it can be powered from an external DC power source as well, great for charging while in the field (e.g. off a car battery or whatever.)  It's also slightly bigger than the B6, on account of needing to fit the AC power supply circuits in it.  It's also $12 more than the B6 but is IMHO well worth it.