G+_Jason Brown Posted October 26, 2018 Share Posted October 26, 2018 Hey guys, I'm a newbie using these prototype pcb boards. Maybe I'm using this type of board wrong. I've seen guys online run traces by bridging the holes with solder. Every time I add more solder it just wicks up to the hole and makes a bubble, and never wants to merge with the hole next to it. with this type of board is my only option to string bare wire across? I haven't found a good YouTube video showing how to do this with this style. I practiced on the attached board picture with not much luck. Any direction would be great. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G+_David Peach Posted October 26, 2018 Share Posted October 26, 2018 You can just blob up the solder and it will eventually bridge. That's a nice board BTW. It has the trace all the way through the hole. The really cheap ones have a trace on each side, but not necessarily connected through the hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G+_Black Merc Posted October 26, 2018 Share Posted October 26, 2018 Add bare copper wire in trace. The pads on the board will just hold it in place. Better connection than wasting solder to fill each hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G+_Paul Hutchinson Posted October 26, 2018 Share Posted October 26, 2018 I've occasionally used the drag method in the 45 years I've used copper clad protoboards. Generally I prefer to use small gauge bare solid wire (26 to 20 AWG) instead. I tack the wire to all the pads along its length to keep it from moving. I also will use any through hole component leads to bridge pads saving on the cost of additional bare wire. For me the key to getting the solder bridge method to work is to use huge amounts of lead based solder. Lead based flows much nicer and the huge quantity enables the bridging between pads. All too often some of the bridges open up as I move along or I get stray bridges which is why I usually just use wire or component leads to reduce re-work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G+_David Alitz Posted October 26, 2018 Share Posted October 26, 2018 I usually use leftover leads from components or bare wire to jumper between pads. If you have components mounted it's easier to use just solder between adjacent holes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G+_Jason Brown Posted October 30, 2018 Author Share Posted October 30, 2018 I ended up using Jonard 30AWG wire. I used too small of a board for trying to control 10 micro servos. Ended up being quite a rats nest but I learned a lot. I'm not sure I like the pcb with the solder through the holes. frys.com - JONARD Kynar® Wire 30 AWG, 50 Foot - Blue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G+_Paul Hutchinson Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 Jason Brown Great choice for wire and a good price too! Kynar insulated silver plated wire wrap wire solders so nicely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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