G+_Chris O'Riley Posted April 24, 2016 Share Posted April 24, 2016 Since I hold Robert and Bryan PERSONALLY RESPONSIBLE for getting me hooked on multirotors, I thought I'd post my latest flying contraption here. The FPV 150 got me wondering if it'd be possible to build a mini quad under the FAA's 255 gram limit that would include everything - FPV, OSD, lights, an APM flight controller and GPS to do autonomous flight modes. I missed the weight limit by just 27 grams! Not insignificant, but not insurmountable to trim with some modifications here and there. I designed and milled the parts on a small desktop CNC milling machine from various materials suited to each function. You can check out more photos of the build here: http://www.chris3d.com/multirotors/170mm/ And here's a video of it flying at night: Keep up the good work guys, love the show. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G+_Ben Reese Posted April 24, 2016 Share Posted April 24, 2016 Awesome that you designed and CNC'd so many of the parts yourself! Not something most of us can do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G+_Scott W Posted April 24, 2016 Share Posted April 24, 2016 Very nice build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G+_Brian “Yikesfpv” Gipe Posted April 24, 2016 Share Posted April 24, 2016 Wow. That thing must be fast! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G+_Larry Havenstein Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 I bet you could drill some holes in some of the parts to lighten it even more and get under the limit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G+_Chris O'Riley Posted April 25, 2016 Author Share Posted April 25, 2016 Thanks everyone. Yea, I could probably lighten this just enough to get below 255 grams, but there's enough design changes I'd like to make to justify building a new one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G+_Dan Salter Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 That is a thing of beauty. The desire to smash a bottle of bubbly over it and give it a name must be overwhelming (but don't). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G+_Rud Dog Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 Did you actually use a 3D printer for your parts and if so which one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G+_Chris O'Riley Posted May 1, 2016 Author Share Posted May 1, 2016 I have a cheap 3D printer, but I didn't use it for any of these parts. I milled them on a small desktop CNC milling machine, the Taig Micro Mill: http://www.chris3d.com/pix/mill.jpg It's more work than 3D printing, but the advantages are accuracy, resolution (virtually unlimited, just make finer tool paths), more variety in materials and probably faster generally. Here's a time-lapse video of the mill cutting a wooden car toy I made my son a few years ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G+_Brian “Yikesfpv” Gipe Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 That's so cool, man! It's 3d unprinting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G+_Rud Dog Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 Chris O'Riley Looking for a hobby how expensive would this one be and by this one I mean the milling machine? (Great job Chris) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G+_Rud Dog Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 After viewing your pics and video, you sir might have just ignited a new trend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G+_Chris O'Riley Posted May 1, 2016 Author Share Posted May 1, 2016 Rud Dog The mill was around $2500. That didn't include the computer system to control it from, but it doesn't take much. I was using an Intel Atom system for a while, then upgraded to an i3 based Intel NUC. So, it's a chunk of money, and you'll spend hundreds on end mills of various sizes (and replacements when you break them! I once snapped an $80 threading end mill on the very first time I used it. Ouch!!), but given the capabilities, it's not bad. I've milled aluminum, some steel, plenty of wood and plastic. Just can't do that on a 3D printer. There are cheaper mills, but they tend not to be as sturdy. The Taig is about as solid as you can get before the price really starts climbing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G+_Rud Dog Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 Looks like its time to start convincing the other half this is the way to go rather then a 3d printer. Looks like this is faster and can do a ton if things. Have you ever tried the scan probe? Found it while researching the mill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G+_Chris O'Riley Posted May 3, 2016 Author Share Posted May 3, 2016 It's definitely more of a commitment, there's more setup in each piece, you have to clamp material down in a way that won't interfere with the tool paths, you have to use a program to figure out, set up and generate the tool paths yourself, you have to change end mills for ones appropriate for each cutting operation, it can be difficult to impossible to do extensive undercutting... But, for the extra work, you get capabilities and accuracy 3D printers just can't offer. So, it all depends on your ultimate goal/interests. Just be prepared to spend more time learning with the mill. My feeling is that for a 3D printer that can even approach the quality of a mill, you'll spend a good fraction of the cost of the mill, and still be limited to plastics. Maybe in a few years when stereo lithography printers come down in price, they'll be compelling, even if still limited to plastics. But if you're up for it, I think a mill is the ultimate DIY tool. Here's where I bought mine, they were great, answered any questions I had, shipped fast, etc. http://www.soigeneris.com I'd definitely recommend them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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