G+_Zachary McIlvoy Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 Anybody know where I can source one of these? Haven't had any luck locally and online I've only found minimum 500 units orders... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G+_Bruno Haineault Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 Did you try MOUSER.com http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/293/e-upm-876313.pdf They offer unit quantities. What is that cap used for in your application? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G+_Eddie Foy Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 AC is odd-ball. motor starter cap? If possible get a Panasonic, the make the best caps) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G+_Bruno Haineault Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 That's why I asked. Seems like a non-polarized cap :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G+_Eddie Foy Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 Obviously there are AC caps. You can put others values (with => V) in series/parallel to get correct capacitance. Also I've mainly seen ceramics as AC. (can't say I've seen or not seen AC electrolytic) Ceramics might work fine. Polly/Mylar most likely will, depending upon application. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G+_Bruno Haineault Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 I have used non-polarized electrolytic capacitors before. You find them for motors and in audio apps. Here is a 15uF one that might work - it's for audio crossover networks. Even if it's axial, you can convert it to radial with some lead bending and heat shrink tubing. Don't know if the 15uF is critical ... probably not :-) http://www.parts-express.com/15uf-100v-electrolytic-non-polarized-crossover-capacitor--027-344 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G+_Bruno Haineault Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 Zachary McIlvoy If we knew the application, it might be easier. Lots of things to consider. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G+_Zachary McIlvoy Posted August 14, 2016 Author Share Posted August 14, 2016 Can't for the life of my figure out how to add a photo to a comment or post on here... so here is an additional photo: https://goo.gl/photos/otHSsrfiMQtyNHQB8 I'm honestly not entirely sure how this circuit works, but I've narrowed it down to this capacitor being the problem by process of elimination. I've never heard of a motor starter but that could be right. In the pic, the plastic-covered wires coming in are a switch, and you see the motor. The black switch is what actually controls the 24v that comes in to the board (not pictured, red 3-pin connector on the board). The switches and power coming in all work, but the motor has stopped moving more than a millimeter or so. When I activate the switch, the motor basically just freezes and provides resistance, but won't move. Thanks for the help all, didn't realize there were so many options here! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G+_Eddie Foy Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 Most caps have are 10% tolerance. And if in audio, DITCH the electrolytic! Go polly/mylar. WAY better. (but will be axials) Check HAM sites/fests too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G+_Bruno Haineault Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 Search for non-polarized capacitors: https://www.westfloridacomponents.com/NP032APL06/15uF+15mF+50V+Non+Polar+Axial+Electrolytic+Capacitor+Xicon+ANP15MFD50V.html I don't believe that the 1uF difference will have any real impact and for 0.70 it's worth it :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G+_Eddie Foy Posted August 14, 2016 Share Posted August 14, 2016 caps should read as an open circuit when good. Any resistance and it should be replaced. (when removed) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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