My large 3D printed build is for the most part complete, my 1:1 scale K2SO

[G+_James Landi (Rudedog)]

My large 3D printed build is for the most part complete, my 1:1 scale K2SO. Need to paint the support pole and base and add the yellow rings around the shoulders but I can move on to my next project. Not really sure what this is right now but I'm thinking an R2 unit.

 

[G+_Philip Godfrey]

Cool!! Does it blindly follow your every order?

[G+_Merry zhang]

robot?

[G+_Rud Dog]

Pictures of your 3D printer, if they will fit in the frame?

[G+_James Landi (Rudedog)]

Thanks all, I have two but only used one for this project. A CR-10 which has a 300x300x400 build area. They print amazing, once dialed in and you can pick them up for around $300-400 on Amazon. You can get the CR-10S which has a build plate of around 500x500x500 for about $900

 

[G+_James Landi (Rudedog)]

James Landi

[G+_Rud Dog]

James Landi Would really like to hear more on the 3d printer you are using. Maybe a short mini review.

[G+_James Landi (Rudedog)]

I purchased my CR-10 via amazon (for those of us in the states) with 2nd day shipping. While people go crazy modifying this printer, you really don't need to go crazy. Mods I would recommend. 1) bed knobs - to easily level bed as the OEM are the size of tick tacks 2) Heater bed strain relief - I think this comes stock now 3) filament guide as it comes close to the z-access rod on that side. Biggest recommendation and now an option for tall prints is the additional Z bracket/rod. If you notice I also run my filament reel on top and out of the way.

I always print from an SD card. The biggest thing past leveling the bed, make sure your bowden tube in secure and flush against the hot end. Once the bed is level, I do that with a piece of paper and a custom STL with 4 small 2 level squares, one in each corner and a outline of a circle in the center. While printing this calibration STL, I manual level the bed. This works well for me. Once level, when printing always remove glass before removing the print. I print on blue tape as per my personal preference. I also have the glass marked as to always put it back in the same orientation. I always print one part at a time. I use Simplify 3D (S3D) as my slicer and can set different processes to print at one time before moving to the next part on the bed. This only works when you have small parts. Larger parts I always print one at a time.I don't like trying to cram a bed full of parts and that can easily be done on such a large print surface. You can also print different tolerances with S3D so if I want deatail on a tall part where the sides are somewhat flat. I can speed the process up by printing the most part at say med (settings) and then finish the top with fine. TBH I use stock settings for the most part in my prints. No need for custom settings unless you are doing something crazy. I only print PLA and stick with the same brand (hicktop via Amazon). While most filament is the same, I like Hicktop as they wind their filament like a fine watch. While my printer has been going for the past 10+ months non stop, I did loose a power supply fan, which I can understand with the hours I've put on this printer. Some of the details have amazed me and again I don't had special fans or use crazy adhesives to make a print stick. Overall this beats my Makerbot 5th Gen which goes for about 7X the $$ and has a larger build plate. Can use inexpensive filament and the quality is amazing. With that said, 95% of the issues with 3D printing is the bowden tube not fully seated into the hot end. This will cause soooooo many problems and is an easy fix to keep an eye on. the CR-10 facebook group is a great place to check out what people are doing and what people are trying to do (most fail at the bowden tube and frustrates the hell out of me. Also now they have the CR-10S, CR-10 5S and the CR-10 mini. The new CR-10S comes with the extra Z axis rod and filament censor (really wish I had the filament censor as it will stop the print so you can swap rolls out).

 

Hope that answered most of your questions. Again my whole K2SO, was done with one bed level and two bad prints that I caught within the first 2-3 minutes because the bowden tube pulled up a bit while swapping reels of filament. The printer is already going again with my 1:1 scale of R2-D2 (working)

[G+_Rud Dog]

James Landi Thank you for taking the time to write your review. Will check out the FB page and feed my need for info on my future 3D printer. Maybe it will force my finger to pull a bit harder on the trigger.

[G+_Rud Dog]

James Landi Would you be so kind as to post the link to the FB group. Did a search and came up with a few. They are all probably great FB pages but would like to follow your suggestion.

[G+_Jason Brown]

You know what I wish? I wish I had a dad... like you.

[G+_James Landi (Rudedog)]

Rud Dog facebook.com - Log into Facebook | Facebook

[G+_James Landi (Rudedog)]

Just a heads up when reading the facebook group. People like to heavily mod their printers 1) out of the box 2) when they've never owned a printer before 3) not have a clue. Then complain about bad prints. Just keep that in mind. Minor upgrades (very minor) are all you need and those just make printing easier. (Disclaimer, I really love to mod things. Computers, Car engines most things around the house. But when you have a great tool out of the box, sometimes less is better.

[G+_Rud Dog]

James Landi Just been informed will have to sell one of the voltbikes before buying my 3D printer. Sad day in the world of Hobbyist.

[G+_Jason Brown]

Can I please share one of these on my completely private FB page? I'll give you full credit, of course. I just want to show people what you can do with a 3-d printer. This is probably one of the most ambitious jobs I've ever seen completed.

[G+_Jason Brown]

I just keep staring at these and can't stop

[G+_James Landi (Rudedog)]

Thanks Jason,

Just picked up another CR-10 but this time a 10S from a local seller near me. Great deal brand new never used for $300. Took about 2 hours to calibrate and I'm off on my next big build. Full scale working R2D2 droid.

[G+_James Landi (Rudedog)]

I'll create a separate thread once I get more parts completed.

[G+_Rud Dog]

Ready. Printer purchase was at the gate ready for purchase but then got cold feet. Why? Started reading all the problems folks were having with glass bed, leveling, spaghetti pile printing, hardware defects, etc. I mean the list just goes on. I am a beginner and have no knowledge or solutions for getting the flawless printing stage you are at. And OMG the brutality on some forums for that printer, people have no level of compassion for folks wandering on the scene of 3D printing. Not sure which items folks are having problems have been fixed with the new larger printer? So as painful as it is will have to go back and start the detailed reading trying to figure which are minor problems with solutions and which are hardware modification solutions.

[G+_James Landi (Rudedog)]

I completely understand. However 90% of people complaining don't have a clue. Also any 3D printer even a $3000 one will take some learning. Example. after showing that picture of calibrating my bed on the new printer. first print came out flawless. However the second print was having issues. My leveling screws loosened up and one fell off. This put everything out of alignment. Took another 3 hours of figuring out how to get more meat on the bed screws so it would not happen again (new for me). With all that said, I recommend trying something local say a makerfair type place where you can spend a few months membership to play and learn. Once you have the printer setup, you then have to work with a slicer and it's settings. It really does take some dedication.

[G+_Rud Dog]

James Landi It is refreshing to get answers direct and to the point rather than having someone beat on your knowledge level.

 

Yes, understand the learning curve is somewhat based on the mechanical ability of the end user. I used to race Remote Control Cars and talk about improvising and mechanical skills needed.

 

I am at a point where the purchase is cleared for takeoff. Thinking of going with the larger model just introduced but will need to research what fixes or lack of fixes were carried over. So, more googling and video youtube watching are in my future.

 

Please post any problems you might run into along with successful builds this will add to my understanding of 3D printing and my upcoming purchase.

 

[G+_James Landi (Rudedog)]

From what I hear the 500x500 have issues with the OEM bed heaters. TBH I don't print with ABS only PLA thus would not have an issue. Just ran into an issue with my new 10S printer. could not get a consistent level on the bed. After banging my head for 3-4 hours. I flipped the glass over and now banging out prints like my original non S CR-10.

 

good luck with the purchase. While I think I know a lot about 3D printing I learn something new all the time.

[G+_Rud Dog]

James Landi flipping the glass over sent me into the Twilight Zone. Did it warp and now you are flexing it back to level. That is something I would have never thought of trying.

[G+_James Landi (Rudedog)]

No out of the box warped. My center was just a bit low. My flipping it over, I was able to bend the edges flush to the hot plate. Just like flipping floor joists over so the arch is on top.