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+Fr Robert Ballecer, SJ I have been working on the lipi and have run into a snag, the parts h...


G+_Dan Baldwin
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+Fr. Robert Ballecer, SJ I have been working on the lipi and have run into a snag, the parts have all been printed and i have begun the process of installing all of the electronics. so far i have the dc plug installed wired the the ubec then on to the switch which powers the pi,done. the three lipo batteries and the tp4056 lipo charger have me confused. the pi requires 5vdc to operate and the 18650 output 3.8 ish volts not enough so i assume your running them in series and running them through the ubec also? then why not use just two batteries? also the charger is a 5 vdc input and outputs 4.2 V + / - 1%. and everything ive read says one charger per battery or you can cause an imbalance and ruin the batteries. so if you could please explain the logic? as far as the momentary push button for the shut down sequence there is plenty of documentation on the net to figure out. I have added a picture as a comment. thanks

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  • 2 months later...

I'm having the same issue with the output of all the components being only about 4.1vdc. There is no way that the circuit can have more than that. Has anyone actually tested the circuit that Fr. Robert put together? Something has to have changed. If you follow the video exactly, all you get is a dead Raspi. :-(

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Jeff dose your TP4056 look like the ones in this image below. The TP4056s below are the newer ones. The older ones lack the 5 volt output.

 

Also this is what I was thinking to allow for faster changing. It might just burn up the chips if the TP4056s are not ground isolated. Ground isolation can be done with B0505s like in the above post. It dose not matter if the batteries are in series or parallel. To match the Father's method you would put it in parallel like below for the 5 volt output.

 

 

28604%20-%201.jpg

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Jeff Johnson Do you think I really need the B0505s for battery isolation. I am not mounting the batteries in series directly. But I do not know if the TP4056s have any type of isolation. Also the 11.1~12.6 volts from the series setup should be more efficient do to not having to step up the voltage.

28608%20-%20IMG_3420.JPG

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Daniel Stagner

One major problem with the B0505S devices is that they are rated at 200 mA max @ 5V. The proposed circuit would likely cook the B0505S devices and cause an open. After doing a lot of research on these TP4056s, they work but have zero isolation. For every TP4056s you use, you will need a separate power supply! That's not really practical, for this project anyway.

 

My take on this project:

I don't like the idea of more than one cell on a single TP4056s but I am going to try two (in parallel) because three is just too risky for me. I picked up a step up board designed to provide 5V from 3.7 (posted the link in another LiPi thread on this group) and I have modified the case to place the board right next to the charge controller.

 

Currently prototyping (printing) the slightly modified case now and I will post it when I am happy with it, in case anyone else is using the same step up board. I have attached a photo of the most recent version (just one side of the bottom case). Comments?

 

Working with batteries that explode and catch fire really changes the DIY game compared to older battery technology. With the older stuff it might spark, get hot, or not charge but a certain amount of experimentation was acceptable. Li-ion technology has changed that - now a mistake or misapplication can result in a chemical fire. So caution, good circuit design, and proper applications for battery type are now absolute requirements. I need to step up my game....

28609%20-%20LiPiCase-mod.jpg

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Daniel Stagner

According to the TP4056S datasheet the input voltage range is 4.5 - 6V DC. If your input UBEC is closer to 5.2V than 5V it might work but I have not seen any write-ups where diodes were used successfully, on the input or output of these things, for isolation.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Glenn Dalgliesh

That will work great depending on the current requirements of your actual load. If I we're doing a Arduino (or anything requiring up to 1A), then that would work great.

 

After taking a step back and looking at the complete project, I decided that for a RasPi 3B+, 1 Amp was just insufficient. I really need to provide 2 - 3 Amps @ 5V for everything. Back to the drawing board on this project for me.

 

Maybe one of the KITA's out there has already slayed this dragon and would like to share! One can always hope.

 

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